I
don’t want to get into a major comparison of Washington, DC vs. New York City,
except to say that as of 2013, the Federal government’s massive role in our
country has made DC just about as important as NYC, a state of affairs which
definitely did not exist before World War II.
And when you consider the cities, you also have to consider the
surrounding metropolitan areas. For DC
that’s Montgomery and Prince George’s County, Maryland, plus Arlington,
Alexandria and Fairfax County, Virginia – possibly Loudoun, Prince William and
Fauquier as well. For NYC that includes
Long Island, Staten Island, and northern New Jersey. We could think of southern Jersey as a big
suburb of Philadelphia.
So
the DC-NY corridor winds up heavily travelled – by myself included. My first trip up was in March 1991 to visit
my friend Dave, who lives out on Long Island.
From then until a few years ago I took several trips to New Jersey to
visit my friend Ken, who progressively moved from Bloomfield, to Ford, and then
to Hillsborough, and to this day still lives in NJ. Since June 2009 I’ve been back and forth to
Fort Lee, which is on the NJ side of the George Washington Bridge, a part of NJ
which is northwest of Manhattan.
Plane. Of course you can fly – if you want. There is a shuttle, and the standard flight
takes 30 minutes. DC is served by three
airports: DCA (Reagan National), IAD
(Dulles), and BWI (Baltimore-Washington), while NYC also has three: JFK, La Guardia, and Newark. The problem with flying between the two
cities is that the logistics of getting to and from the airport mean it will
take longer to do so than the flight itself.
I’ve never flown, just to fly between those two cities, although on home
leaves we’ve flown from Paris to DC by way of JFK. If the train is impractical, the plane is
even worse.
Train. DC is served by Union Station, a huge edifice
near where 1st Street, NW, and Massachusetts Ave. converge. Like many European stations, it began in 1907
as yet another palace of transportation.
When rail travel began to decline after the national highway system gave
Americans their own Autobahn, Union Station likewise fell into decline. Its renovation has been fitful and
controversial. I rarely travel by train,
so every time I’d go there the place would be set up completely differently
inside.
On
the New York end, Penn Station is now buried deep under Madison Square
Garden. It was built in 1910 and was
originally above-ground, just as spacious and magnificent as the other major
rail stations. In 1968 all the above-ground
sections were demolished, replaced by the Madison Square Garden skyscraper
complexes above, and became completely underground. My guess is that most modern depictions of a
fabulous, Art Nouveau era train station in Manhattan are actually showing Grand
Central Station, which is completely different.
Whereas Penn Station is on 8th Avenue at 33rd
Street, Grand Central is at 42nd Street and Lexington Ave. I’ve seen one concert at MSG – AC/DC, during the
summer of 1988. Although we did in fact
use Penn Station for train travel to NYC – the only time we’ve done so – it was
not in conjunction with that concert, which simply took place during our time
in the city.
As
for the logistics of it, the train is as rigidly bound by schedules as the bus,
but much more expensive, and thus impractical.
That’s why I never take the train to NYC.
Bus. DC’s bus terminal used to be the Greyhound Station located a few blocks
north of Union Station, which only recently moved to Union Station itself. The bus terminal was a very small, square
building and only served the Greyhound intercity bus system. Today’s “Chinatown” buses stop elsewhere. I won’t call Union Station a backwater, but
it’s really only busy because of itself.
In
NYC, the Port Authority Bus Terminal
dates from 1950. I recall going through
there as a kid whenever our family went to NYC by bus, or went through NYC on
the way up to Glens Falls to visit our relatives in upstate New York. The PABT also handles considerable local bus
traffic, including the 158 bus to Fort Lee.
It’s a huge, multilevel building which occupies the equivalent of 4 city
blocks, on 8th Avenue at 42nd Street. Walk out of the building and you’re on the
famous part of 42nd Street leading directly to Times Square. Very convenient! There’s also a bronze statue of Ralph
Kramden, the famous bus driver (Jackie Gleason) from “The Honeymooners” right
in front, and the New York Times building is across the street.
Nominally
the bus takes as long as driving yourself:
4 hours (add more time due to traffic, as necessary). In my case, it’s more like 7 hours: getting
home from work, getting a ride to the bus stop, and at the NYC end walking to
the bus terminal and then getting the 158 bus to Fort Lee. The price paid for dozing off on a bus and
not paying gas or tolls is that the logistics eat up 2-3 hours as well: plus you have to leave according to a
schedule instead of whenever you want. Nowadays
Greyhound has competition from various other small private companies who simply
run DC-NY routes, in particular TripperBus (the one I use), but there are
others, such as the Bolt Bus and Megabus.
The
buses are much cheaper than the train, let you relax instead of driving, and
take care of the tolls and gas as well.
They sometimes – not always – stop at the rest stops in northeast
Maryland, a big new facility in Delaware, or the smaller ones on the New Jersey
Turnpike.
Car. If you can’t predict when you’ll come or go,
or don’t want to be fixed to a bus schedule and are inclined to drive yourself, you can do so. In addition to the
gas you’ve got tolls. Lots of them, and
as of 2013 they really add up.
Fortunately EZPass makes it more convenient, but the cost remains
basically the same.
Let’s
start with the baseline. This is the
simplest, most direct route which most people will probably take (and the bus
takes it). For simplicity I’ll just go
northbound but note toll differences.
1. 95 or 295 (BW Parkway) from DC to
Baltimore. No toll. This is the first hour out of 4. To the extent there is any nasty traffic
which would make the trip last 4.5, 5, or 6 hours, it’s probably here. In 2006 it once took me 3 hours to get from
Falls Church to Baltimore, and earlier the DC Beltway traffic was so
horrendous, it took me two hours to get from Rosslyn just to the exit for 95
North from the DC Beltway, over near College Park.
2. Fort McHenry Tunnel or Baltimore Harbor
Tunnel (by way of the 895 Bypass): $4.00
each way.
3. JFK Memorial Highway, i.e. 95 from
Baltimore to Delaware. $8.00 northbound
only. This is the second hour out of 4 –
so crossing into NJ means you’re halfway there.
4. Delaware Turnpike (95) from MD to the
Delaware Memorial Bridge. $4.00 each
way.
5. Delaware Memorial Bridge (DMB) from DE
to NJ. $4.00 southbound only.
6. New Jersey Turnpike from DMB to Exit 18,
the very end, at the George Washington Bridge.
Note: the Lincoln Tunnel is
Exit 16 and puts you downtown most likely where you want to be. The full turnpike toll is $13.85 both ways. The
halfway point on this part of the trip is Exit 7A.
NJTP
charges a different rate for peak vs. off-peak: the full toll in off-peak is
$10.40. Peak is defined as 7-9 a.m. and
4:30–6:30 p.m. M-F and all day Saturday and Sunday.
Trip
Toll Total from DC to exit 18 on the Turnpike: $29.85 northbound, $25.85 southbound,
round trip total $55.70 ($48.80 off-peak).
Recently
I got back from northern New Jersey (Fort Lee) and took a very strange route,
which added 30-60 minutes in travel time but eliminated all tolls. Is it really possible to avoid them? Yes, but it takes some work.
Toll
saver alternate Route 1. Northbound, take
Route 40 in Delaware from 279 (last MD exit before DE) and get back on 95 just
before the DMB (NB); if going southbound, get on Route 40 just after crossing
DMB into DE and follow it to 279 in Elkton, MD, back onto 95. Route 40 is a four lane highway with a huge
median and not many stoplights. You can stop for gas or fast food. Total amount saved: $4.00 each way. It’s not a bad change of scenery. I took this route when DE was redoing its
toll plaza, causing massive backup southbound.
Toll
saver alternate Route 2. Northbound: immediately
after crossing into NJ on the DMB, keep right and take 295 North. 295 goes parallel to the NJTP a few miles to
the west. When it passes Philadelphia it
gets very confusing, but follow signs for 295-Trenton and there’s no problem. But eventually at exit 36 it allows you to go
back to the NJTP at Exit 4. Going southbound, get off the Turnpike at Exit
4, go west for less than a mile, and then take 295 south. The savings are $2.60 (peak) and $1.90
(off-peak), or $5.20 and $3.80 respectively, round trip. The junction at the end is right at the
bridge, and at Exit 4 it’s about a half mile, hardly noticeable. Moreover, the bottom end of the Turnpike is
VERY boring, especially at night. 295
isn’t much of a scenic route, but at least you’ve got mile-marked exits fairly
often (36 to 1). The big catch is the
confusing business around Philadelphia, but if you follow the signs carefully
you’ll stay on track without a problem.
I found this to be a worthwhile detour.
Toll
saver alternate Route 3. Instead of
veering east for the DMB on 95 in Delaware, veer north towards Wilmington and
Philadelphia and take 95 up that way.
Eventually 95 will cross the river, plunge into New Jersey, loop around
on a major detour, and …eventually find its way to Exit 7A on the
Turnpike. This is kind of a pain in the
ass detour, plus you run the risk of hitting Philadelphia traffic. The savings are $4.30 peak, $3.35 off-peak,
for $8.60 peak roundtrip or $6.70 off-peak roundtrip. I don’t find this detour to be worth the
savings.
Toll
saver alternate Route 4. This is the big
one: off into banjoland Pennsylvania but
NO TOLLS. Roundtrip savings
approximately $50. Additional driving
time 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on traffic, but it is a VERY different
route and during the day quite scenic and picturesque. No huge smoking refineries, no huge bridges
or rivers, no tunnels, no Dupont ethyl lead plants, but lots of liquor stores,
tattoo parlors, farmland, etc.
It’s
a bit different each way, but the general idea is 95 > 695 > 83 > 30
> 222 > I78 > 287 > I80.
1. Drive up 95 North or BW Parkway to the
Baltimore Beltway (695). Take 695
west/north to Towson.
2. Take 83 North up to York,
Pennsylvania. This becomes a 4 lane
highway winding its way through hills and forests, somewhat reminiscent of the
lower Turnpike but more up and down.
3. Get off (N. Hills Rd/462), continue
straight on Hills and take a right onto 30 East. Follow this for about 30 miles.
4. Take 222 northeast all the way to
Allentown. This is by far the worst of
the trip. The road varies from highway
to two lane road, back and forth, and several times you have to exit 222 onto
222 (???). The key is to continue on
“222” towards Allentown and not get distracted by the route numbers and road
changes.
5. Just south of Allentown, get on I-78
East. This takes you east into New
Jersey and remains a major highway all the way through. By this time you’re probably fed up with
“small roads”, especially if you’re driving at night and can’t see much anyway.
6. Take 287 North. This remains a highway, apparently curving
up parallel to the Garden State Parkway (which is to the east). 287 N eventually meets the NY State Thruway
if you follow it over the NY State Line.
7. Take 80 East. The interchange is exit 43 on 80, about ten
miles west of Wayne. Follow 80 East to NYC.
Overall time: just under 5 hours and NO tolls.
As
noted, southbound it’s a bit different.
It’s still I80 > 287 > I78 … 222 > 30 > 83 > 695 > 95,
but getting from I78 to 222 is the tricky part.
1. Take 80 West to 287 S. As of 11/13 they’re doing construction on
that interchange, so the traffic is nasty.
2. Take 287 S to I78 West.
3. Here’s where it gets crazy. To avoid the toll in I78 in PA, you get off
I78 right before PA, at Route 122, getting on Main Street, a winding two lane
road through Phillipsburg, NJ, crossing a bridge at Union Square over the river
into Easton, PA, through the traffic circle, right on 3rd St., left
on Snyder, which then gets you onto 22 (Lehigh Valley Thruway), which leads to
I-78.
4. Almost immediately after getting onto
I-78, take 100 S, then a right onto Schantz road, which turns into 222
south.
5. Continue following “222 South” to get
off onto 222 South (???), finally leading to 30 West towards York. 30 crosses the Susquehanna River, a similar
two-bridge deal just like all the way down in northeast MD and 95. (the nicer
parallel bridge to the south is 462 connecting Wrightsville on the west bank
and Columbia on the east bank).
6. As 30
West hits York at N. Hills Road, take a left turn at a stop light, go down the
road about a mile, take a right onto Market, and immediately get onto 83
South. From there it’s back down to 695
West, 95 South and the DC area again. NO
TOLLS.
** Note 1: the westbound toll on I78 from PA into NJ is only $1.00; the toll is actually for the bridge itself. I found it worthwhile to waive the "no toll" concept, eat the $1.00 EZPass toll, and simply stay on I78 from NJ into PA, then take 222 south at Allentown.
** Note 2: When going to/from Frederick, MD to NYC, it works better to take 70 West to Hagerstown, pick up I81, then follow that to Harrisburg and pick up I78 East, which starts there.
Having a GPS is a huge help with this, as you might
imagine. The Android maps app can be
programmed to avoid tolls (I83 route), which gave me a route identical to the
AAA TripTik, which is what us twentieth century fossils use.
I get off in Fort Lee, NJ, without actually going into
NYC itself (except on the bus, but then the bus company pays the tolls). Driving up the Turnpike you’d go into NYC in
the Lincoln Tunnel, which dumps you between 42 Street and 34 Street on the west side of the island.
Driving on the alternate route would get you into NYC over the George
Washington Bridge, which is up around 175 Street, also on the west
side of Manhattan. From there you can go
east to the Bronx (and on to Connecticut), southeast on FDR Drive over to
Queens or Brooklyn, or just stay on the West Side Highway. The tolls for cars on the Lincoln Tunnel and
GW Bridge are the same: $13 cash, $10.25
peak, $8.25 off-peak, and $4.25 “carpool” (3 or more persons). They only charge going INTO Manhattan –
“escape from NY” is free.
I bitch about the tolls, but the real benefit was simply
a completely different route than the one I’ve endured since 2009. I really do NOT like the lower half of the
Turnpike, especially at night.