Belgium

Recently, as you may have noticed, bad things happened in Brussels, Belgium (or Bruxelles, as the Belgiques call it).  Terrorism rears its ugly head in Europe, as it has in Africa, the Middle East, and the US.  In our country, most of the violence is from non-Muslim sources, but they’re doing their best.  Anyhow.  Rather than dwell on unpleasantness, particularly on a Friday, I’d rather simply discuss Belgium.

Walloons vs. Flemish.  Belgium is another country like Canada and Switzerland, that speaks French (Walloons) AND another language.  In this case, instead of English or German, the second language is Dutch (Flemish).  Most of the Walloons are on the southwestern side of the country that borders France, and most of the Flemish are on the northeastern side of the country, bordering Holland.  They seem to get along as well as in Canada or Switzerland. 

During WWII the Flemish were accepted immediately into the Waffen SS, while the Walloons had a trial period in the Wehrmacht, before impressing the SS and getting an SS division of their own.  Their leader, Leon Degrelle, insisted on starting out as a private and working his way up, and wound up as the most highly decorated non-German in the Greater Hitler Gang. 

Brussels.  The capital.  We’ve been there once, back in the early 80s.  We stayed at the Metropole Hotel.  The two major landmarks are the Mannequin Pis, and the Atomium.

            The Mannequin Pis is a copper statue-fountain of a young boy – practically a baby – peeing.  It dates from the 17^th century, although the current boy was put there in 1965.  No one knows the exact story behind this, but the story – one among many – that we heard was that a rich man’s son was captured.  The father offered a bounty for his safe return, and promised to build a statue of him exactly has he was when he was rescued.  His rescuers discovered him peeing, thus the statue.  As I said, one story among many.  Imagine the statue if the boy had been a teenager, maybe more popular with the ladies.  Anyhow.

            A somewhat less naughty landmark is the Atomium, a huge metallic sculpture of an iron crystal, dating from the 1958 Expo, and which is still there – like Paris’ Eiffel Tower.

SHAPE.   Formerly outside Paris (now the grounds of the American School of Paris) it relocated to Belgium after DeGaulle pulled France out of NATO in the 1960s.  It’s just over the border.   Actually the PX complex is at a slightly different, but not too far away, location, in Chievres.   I’ve reviewed this earlier (10/10/08, Post Exchanges).

Mons.   This town has the distinction of being where the British Expeditionary Force (BEF) first encountered the Germans in August 1914.   When we visited SHAPE overnight, we’d stay at the Raymond Hotel, which was right across the street from the rail station.  We actually ventured forth through Mons itself.  Nice town.

Bruges.  Another medieval city in Belgium.  A modestly entertaining film, “In Bruges” (2008) starring Colin Farrell, Brendan Gleeson, and Ralph Fiennes, takes place there.  Although we visited this town in the 80s, the movie did not bring back any memories.

Ostend.  I recall my parents liked to drive us to England.  On numerous occasions we drove to Ostend, on the Channel Coast, and took the ferry to England (this was ages before the Chunnel).  The ferry took 4 hours and was not particularly interesting.  London was.  Our experience of Ostend was limited to the ferry terminal.

Bastogne.  In both wars, Belgium wound up as a nice place for German soldiers to march.  In WWII, Belgium wound up getting more excitement in December 1944, when the Germans tried one last offensive to throw the Amis and Tommies back into the Channel.  The Ardennes Offensive ran out of gas (almost literally), but not before the Germans surrounded Bastogne.  The US garrison held out, refusing surrender.  “Nuts!”  Patton came by and broke the siege.  And there was much rejoicing.

Waffles & Fries.  Belgians are famous for their cuisine and love of food.  Waffles and “French” fries are excellent to get there.  The Belgians have a strong – though disputed – claim to have invented French fries.  Both countries do an excellent job of them.  I’ll say I’m a bigger fan of fries than waffles.

Beer.  In addition to food, Belgians are also well known for beer.  Stella Artois is the most famous brand.  Blue Moon is based on Belgian beer, and a trip to the local Total Wine or even supermarket will show multiple instances of the word “Belgian”. 

Asterix.  I know he’s Gaulish (French), but his adventure in Belgium was a good view of the French attitude towards Belgians.  In that story the Belgians look exactly like Gauls, are just as brave, and eat humungous meals.  The whole point of the story was because the Romans claimed Caesar said that the Belgians were the bravest, so our Gaulish heroes challenged their Belgian counterparts to a contest.  “You’re ALL equally crazy!!” was Caesar’s final verdict. 

Tintin.  Truly Belgian, although many of the stories take place outside of Belgium.  For years, reading the English translations, I assumed he was British, until he got on a ferry TO England, which settled that question. 

As you might imagine, I also covered him (9/30/10), and in addition to several animated films, a recent computer animated film was done.  The books are entertaining; my favorites are the B&W “Land of Soviets”, the early “Broken Ear”, and the last few, “Flight 714” and “Picaros”.  Enjoy.

Jean-Claude Van Damme.   Belgium’s most recent export, the Muscles From Brussels.   Is he a real martial artist or just an actor?  Actually he does have legitimate karate and kickboxing credentials.  I find him entertaining for the most part.  How about a live action Tintin with him?  Anybody?

The Congo.  I’ll leave on this note.  Belgium used to have a king, Leopold II, who died in 1909.  Before he died, he made the Congo – currently the Democratic Republic of the Congo, formerly Zaire – into his own private playground.  Bad things happened there, and many people died…possibly in the millions, though the exact count is hazy – but atrocities in the same league as the better-publicized and more recent Holocaust. 

Notwithstanding, but without waiving acknowledgement of said events, Belgium in 2016 is a much better country and its current citizens bear no guilt for those activities.  So we’ll maintain their innocence and mourn their loss.  Amen.