Retour A Paris 2017

As my Facebook posts gave away, I managed to visit Paris again, albeit for a week.   Thanks to our friend Jean, ASP Class of ’86, we had a place to stay, and managed lunch at the US Embassy.  Thank you Jean, thank you Loni, and thank you Matt.

Background.  In January 1979 our family moved to Paris.  Our father was with the US Dept of Commerce and had a post at the Embassy which allowed us to remain there until 1990.  From February 1979 to April 1984 we lived at the US Embassy compound in Neuilly, then in April 1984 we moved into Paris itself, on Blvd. Malesherbes just up the street from St. Augustin.  In August 1990 we moved back to the US.  I had never had a chance to get back since then, so this was also my first visit as a tourist.  As my GF-companion Loni had never been, I also had the opportunity to play tour guide to an extent.  Fortunately the changes from 1990 are less significant than all the things which are pretty much the same.

Mandatory Sightseeing:  Eiffel Tower, for the first time since spring 1979; Versailles (again); the Louvre (first time since summer 1987); Notre Dame; Montmartre.  We did pass through Pigalle, Paris' red light district, without doing much more than observe its nature - the circumstances of our lodging prevented any subsequent appropriate activities in the same spirit.    

Charles De Gaulle Airport.  Terminal 1 still has its tubes.  Awesome.  Plus now it’s connected by the RER, which wasn’t the case back when I lived there.  Jean and I joked that Petain doesn’t have an airport named after him.

Fun stuff.  FNAC.  The Wagram location is gone, but now there’s one on Ternes down the street, on the Champs Elysees itself, and another at Passage du Havre near Gare St. Lazare and Galeries Lafayette.  The store’s music selection pisses all over Best Buy and Barnes & Noble, giving an in-store selection comparable to Amazon.  Brant Bjork?  Kadavar?   Awesome.  If I lived in Paris – again – I’d be there nonstop.

Metro.   I love the Metro.  Flat rate tickets.   Stops mere blocks from each other.   A comprehensive network.  Actually, we didn’t take cabs or Uber at all on our visit. The Metro and RER got the job done, plus our own feet.   Now the #1 line, La Defense (formerly Pont de Neuilly) to Chateau de Vincennes, has doors on the platforms themselves and automatic, driverless trains which presumably do not go on strike.  [To be fair, though, no strikes occurred during our visit.]

Food.   Convenience alone forced us to visit Evil Clown (McD) at least once.   I didn’t see Chipotle around.  The Burger King on the Champs seems to be gone.  KFC in Versailles was good.   No free refills, though, and what passes for “LARGE” in Paris would be “MEDIUM” back in the US.   We did enjoy Hippo and Relais de Venise, though.

Notre Dame.  As my readers know, I’ve been visiting the local cathedrals in the US.  By nature, they are recent additions, almost all built during the twentieth century.   Here was a big thing actually built in the Middle Ages, in fact taking about 200 years to build thanks to constant CGT strikes.  It’s big.  It’s dark.  It’s actually THE cathedral of the archdiocese of Paris and has two statues of St. Denis carrying his own head (which is pretty badass).   Now they have a cute electronic pen thing you can point to items on the map and it will tell you what they are.  Also, the crypt is good, as you see the Roman stuff that was there underneath.   What I didn’t realize was that even in Roman times, there was a substantial Left Bank development of Lutetia, so it wasn’t just on the Island. 

Left Bank vs. Right Bank.  We did not visit the Latin Quarter, so our sole Left Bank fun was the Eiffel Tower.   I also missed out on the Franco-Prussian War exhibit at the Musee de L’Armee – odd, as it was the only Franco-German war the Germans won.  We also missed out on The Bones, as Loni calls the Catacombs.  Well, put them down for next time along with Aquaboulevard and the full Versailles gardens. 

Napoleon III and Haussmann.  Now I know what role they had in redeveloping Paris from 1848-1870, so I saw much of the city with new eyes.  The current 20 arrondissement size, an absorption of the immediate suburbs, dates from their partnership.  Nowadays N3 is better known for his unsuccessful adventure in Mexico, colonizing Vietnam, and losing to Prussia in 1870, but his legacy in Paris itself is far more substantial in real terms today.  I also recognized Louis Phillippe, the last French King (1830-48) in many of the paintings.