Friday, May 24, 2019

Mount Vernon

Recently I posted an Onion bit about ancient Egyptians only visiting the Pyramids when friends came in from out of town.   Sadly, that applied to Mount Vernon as far I was concerned.  I was aware of its existence but never bothered to visit.  My impression is that it was mainly his house and not much else.  I was wrong.

First off, my hiking – an attempt to lose weight without hammering my knees and ankles on the treadmill – took me down the Mount Vernon Trail, which begins at the estate itself and ends 17 miles north in Rosslyn, where I used to live.  I could not hike 17 miles at once, so I had to do it in stages, alternating with similar efforts on the W&OD Trail.   Also, I started from Rosslyn and worked my way south, doing the trail in reverse.  It follows both the George Washington Parkway AND the Potomac River, which are roughly parallel to each other.  As of yet, I had never ventured down that way beyond King Street in Old Town Alexandria, so taking the trail itself was illuminating and fun in its own right.  Not only that, the Potomac River gets much wider, and the view across it to Maryland highly aesthetically pleasing.  Ultimately I became determined to visit the estate itself after the hike was done.   Last weekend I finally managed to do so.

George Washington himself was born in 1732, a younger scion of his father, who was apparently successful at producing multiple offspring.  Sadly, his overworked (!) father died when he was just 11.  In the 1750s he fought in the French & Indian War, then returned to Mount Vernon to manage it after his older brothers conveniently died off.  Twenty years later he led the Revolutionary Armies to victory against the British (1775-1781), served as our first President for two terms (1788-1796) (I prefer to round terms down to their even-numbered election years, though the first election actually took place in 1789) and just a few years after retiring to Mount Vernon to chill indefinitely, sadly did so literally in December 1799, dying of an illness related to the cold weather. 

Washington’s impressive plantation had a fishery, lots of farmland – he switched from tobacco to wheat at some point – and had a whiskey distillery down the road.  It also had a nice wharf which juts out into the river, which as previously noted is fairly wide at this point.  Fort Washington (a future destination) and a nature park face the estate from the Maryland side.

His tomb is here, up on a hill, up away from the marshy slope near the river.  He was originally buried in the Old Tomb until that area degenerated, and someone felt  it was advisable to move his remains to more solid ground, as was done in 1831.   The Masonic Memorial in Alexandria has a curious goblet constructed of his first coffin, an item which is wisely kept behind glass and not used to drink anything.  

The house itself is pretty small, but looks like it has 5 bedrooms and an office.  One intriguing artifact hangs from the wall in a glass case:  the French presented him with no less than the KEY to Bastille Prison in Paris.   (Approving voice from Long Island: “NICE….”)

Those of my readers whose ancestors most highly appreciate the Thirteenth Amendment are probably aware that Washington was indeed a slave owner, and the grounds contain multiple references to his involuntary staff and a large building which housed these unfortunates.   The dialogue insists that Washington was a compassionate manager and even instructed Martha to free the slaves after her death, and she did so after his own.  So at least one group didn’t have to wait for Lincoln….

On the way out, there’s an impressive museum.  This has the usual high tech stuff but does a good job of chronicling his life from 1732 to 1799 with the various things he did along the way – leading our armies to victory against the British and being our first President for two terms.  Back then we only had 13 states, and from 1788-1796 he seemed determined to make sure we didn’t do anything truly stupid.  He kept us out of Syria, Iraq, and Vietnam, personally put down the western Pennsylvania Whiskey Rebellion, resurrected the Navy, and overall remained neutral.  Keep in mind that in 1789 the French had issues, which erupted even more in 1793 when they gave Louis XVI a fatal haircut at the Place de la Concorde, and thereafter Europe was quite busy trying to squash this inconvenient rebellion.  For the ladies, there’s a presentation on George’s relationship with Martha, though I didn’t stay long enough to ascertain if their conjugal relations were explicitly depicted.  I’m guessing decorum and discretion mandate otherwise, though the estate might see more traffic if they were;  others might object given the school groups which frequent the museum.   Anyhow.

National Treasure 2 (Book of Secrets).  The original film featured Nicolas Cage and Jon Voight as a father and son team trying to find a lost Mason treasure.  The sequel gets the same pair trying to find Eldorado, which turns out to be located under Mount Rushmore in South Dakota.  In part of the film, Ben Gates (Cage) has to “kidnap” the President himself (Bruce Greenwood) to ask him confidential information in the President’s legendary secret book.  He does so at a nighttime event at Mount Vernon, and their interaction occurs in a secret – and fictitious – underground tunnel at the estate.  The writers preferred to use that than to defer to the actual underground meth lab with which Washington supplanted his income.

Bogus Article.  I picked up the 5/23/19 issue of Washington Post Express which had a particularly onerous article on Mount Vernon by a fatally clue-deficient liberal, Sadie Dingfelder, called “Estate Facts: Hard truths get a bit lost at Mount Vernon”.  My readers know I’m no fan of Trump, but idiocy like this is where I’m  sympathetic when his supporters bitch about “libtards”:  applying contemporary politically correct values to Founding Fathers over 200 years ago.  Her specific argument is that Washington’s slave-owning was “hidden” or “denied” at Mount Vernon.  First off, the slave quarters on the grounds are clearly marked as such, AND there is an exhibit in the museum itself about his slave ownership.  No one is denying he owned slaves or trying to hide that.  Second, Ms. Dingbatter herself cites a $10 “Enslaved People of Mount Vernon” tour at Mount Vernon (!!!).  The Mount Vernon website itself has a section addressing this issue: https://www.mountvernon.org/george-washington/slavery/ten-facts-about-washington-slavery/
Third, it took a Civil War and 600,000 casualties for the US to finally rid itself of slavery, as South Carolina and the other CSA states didn’t simply say, “sure, OK” when the North demanded they free their slaves.  Washington directed that his slaves be freed upon his wife’s death, and Martha Washington did so during her own lifetime (see website link).   Fourth, George Washington managed to lead a ragtag army from 1775-81 and defeat the strongest country in the world, then successfully steered the country through its first two presidential terms.  None of that features in her article.  According to this woman, because Mount Vernon does not make Washington’s slave-owning the primary focus of the entire estate, somehow they are “hiding” or “losing” this issue.  Forget everything else, the only truly important thing about Washington (and Jefferson and the other Founding Fathers) was that he owned slaves.  Massive facepalm.    

George Washington Masonic National Memorial.  I first visited this in January 2010, then again more recently in better weather.  I mentioned it briefly in my 2015 blog on Old Town Alexandria.  This is not far away from Mount Vernon.  Washington himself was a Mason.  It sits on a hilltop and dominates the fairly modest local skyline for miles around.  The view from the top, especially in nice weather, is especially impressive.  It was started in 1922, building finished in 1932 (200 years after Washington’s birth), and the interior was finally done in 1970.  There’s a huge statue of him as a Mason, lots of Masonic memorabilia, and plenty of the other items to satisfy the curious.  [Oddly, “National Treasure”, a movie which otherwise loves to Mason this, Mason that, ignored it.  SMH…]

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