Showing posts with label edgarallenpoe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label edgarallenpoe. Show all posts

Friday, September 20, 2013

Baltimore

I covered Baltimore before, briefly, in my Maryland blog (6/25/10), but if Hagerstown and Frederick deserve their own blogs, why not Baltimore?

It’s the biggest city in Maryland, located 30 minutes northeast of DC on 95, Route 1, and the Baltimore-Washington Parkway.  On my trips to NJ/NY, Baltimore winds up being right around the 1 hour mark of a four hour drive, the quarter mark, so to speak.  It has its own beltway, 695, which I’ve been around mainly to get to Towson.  Not one but two tunnels, Harbor and Fort McHenry, provide a bypass for traffic going to or from DC to NY.
 
Most recently I saw Clutch at the Shindig Festival at Carroll Park, which is over in western Baltimore near where the Montgomery Park building is; another Clutch show, back last July, put me up Charles Street to another part of town for the free Artscape Festival.   Baltimore is a city I learn by bits and pieces, as I’ve never lived or worked there.  Mainly it’s been concerts at Hammerjacks (ages ago) and the Ram’s Head Live in the downtown area (again, thanks to Clutch), or less often legal work.   The Circuit Court building is ancient – turn of the century style – and the downtown area features in “Die Hard 4”, masquerading, highly unsuccessfully, as Washington DC.   No one who has ever been to either city, much less both, would ever mistake one for the other.  “And Justice For All…” is another legal drama in Baltimore.  The other city Baltimore reminds me of, due to the heavy dose of monuments and fancy nineteenth century buildings, is Richmond, Virginia.

History.  Founded in 1729 as a town, named after Lord Baltimore (note: the band Sir Lord Baltimore are actually from Brooklyn, New York), it became a city in 1796 and incorporated in 1851.  It’s the site of Fort McHenry, the subject of Francis Scott Key’s famous song, “The Star Bangled Banner,” which of course is our poorly-sung national anthem.  Notable B-moreans are Edgar Allen Poe and H.L. Mencken.   The city boomed after the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad opened in 1835.  During the Civil War a few riots persuaded the US to occupy the town.  I remember in school some of the more pedantic jerks used to snivel about George Washington not being the first President, facetiously citing several prior Presidents of the Continental Congress (or Congreff, as Woody might say), which was the provisional US government from 1773 to 1789.  Likewise, from December 1776 to February 1777, it was the capital of Bourgeois Revolutionary Soviet of America, as I like to call it. 

It suffered a fire in 1904, and riots in the Civil War, 1877, and 1968.  The Inner Harbor area, probably the nicest and most upscale neighborhood – where I’ve been on dates – was refurbished in the early 80s.  The city still has its share of crappy neighborhoods.  There’s a red light district close to Ram’s Head Live.  The harbor itself is fairly large – so much so that two tunnels have to bring traffic under it.

Which leads to my question:  why are there TWO tunnels?  The Harbor Tunnel opened in 1957; this is the tunnel I remember our family going through on trips to NYC and Long Island in the 1970s.   Apparently this wasn’t enough (though I don’t remember heavy traffic in the Harbor Tunnel), so they tied up 95 with the Fort McHenry Tunnel in 1985.  After that they renovated the Harbor Tunnel and opened it up again in 1990.  The Harbor Tunnel is fed by the 895 bypass, which hooks up to 95 at either end.  To me they’re pretty much the same, but I usually wind up taking the Harbor Tunnel by default and the Fort McHenry Tunnel just out of sheer boredom and variety.

National Bohemian is the city’s beer, although it’s not brewed in Baltimore anymore (NC and GA).  It’s now owned by, and tastes like, Pabst (which earned its Blue Ribbon at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893).  It’s called Natty Bo and has a one-eyed, mustachio’d mascot, Mr. Boh…who is rather distinctive even if the beer itself isn’t.

Sports.  The Cleveland Browns relocated in 1996 and became the Baltimore Ravens, an obvious tribute to Edgar Allen Poe.   They won the Super Bowl last year against the 49ers, and back in 2000 against the NY Giants:  Ray Lewis was on both teams.  The Colts relocated to Indianapolis in 1984, having started up in Baltimore in 1951.  The Colts beat the Cowboys in 1971, after having lost to the upstart Jets (led by Joe Namath) in 1969.  The baseball team, the Orioles, date from 1954 and won the World Series in 1967, 1970, and 1983.  I've passed by Camden Yards countless times but have never been to an Orioles game; the same with passing M&T Bank Stadium and never seeing the Ravens play.


Poe.   Seeing as they didn’t reference Mencken when renaming the Browns, I’d say Poe is more important to Baltimore then H.L.  Frank Zappa was born and grew up in Baltimore – I saw Zappa Play Zappa at a “rename a Baltimore city street after the musician” free festival – but moved to L.A. with his family in 1952 when he was 12 years old.  Poe himself had a rocky life and moved several times, living in Baltimore several times before dying there in 1849.  No other city – not Richmond, not Boston – seems to lay as much claim to him as Baltimore does.  

Friday, June 25, 2010

Maryland


Odd, I’ve done blogs on New Jersey, New York City, Colorado, Paris, Bucharest, Rio de Janeiro, but have yet to write about my home state, Maryland.  I guess watching Clutch DVDs drilled it back into my skull; time to address that oversight.  Since it’s my home state, I can ramble on quite a bit about it, so bear with me.

 Basics. The name is, oddly enough, pronounced “Marilynd”, even in official contexts.  Pronounce it as “Mary-Land” and people will look at you funny.
            The state is named after Henrietta Maria, the Queen consort to English King Charles I.  Being Catholic, she was ineligible to be Queen of England.  She was the aunt of French King Louis XIV. 
            Maryland was a slave state during the US Civil War, but did not secede from the Union.  As a border state, its loyalties were divided between pro-Union northwest and pro-CSA southeast.  A major battle, Antietam, took place in 1862 close to Frederick in northwest Maryland.  McClellan’s unique victory over Lee persuaded the British and French to pass on recognizing the Confederacy. 
            The flag is actually unique.  Most states cop out and simply put their seal on a dark blue field (e.g. Virginia).  Maryland combined the black and gold banner of the Calvert family with the red/white cross of the Crossland family.   The Crossland segment was used by Maryland secessionists during the Civil War; the combined flag dates from 1904. 
            Maryland’s highest ranking politician in US politics was Spiro Agnew, Richard Nixon’s Vice President.
            Fort McHenry, near Baltimore, came under British fire during the War of 1812, but somehow managed to survive.  Francis Scott Key was inspired to write “The Star Spangled Banner”, which became our national anthem.  Personally, I prefer “America the Beautiful.”

 Geography.    On the East (Atlantic) coast of the United States, on the Chesapeake Bay.  To me, Maryland is as important, if not more so, for where it is as what it is – like our equivalent of Belgium, which finds itself conveniently located between two countries which hated each other (Germany and France) and had no less than three wars, of which two put Belgium in the crossfire.  Similarly, Maryland was a thoroughfare for CSA forces invading the North.  It’s surrounded by two more important states and two less important states. 
            The northern border with Pennsylvania is better known as the Mason-Dixon LinePennsylvania is a big state with Philadelphia to the far east – across the river from Camden, New Jersey – and Pittsburgh in the western, mountainous section. 
            To the south, the District of Columbia (DC) is a diamond cut out of the state.  Clearly, our nation’s capital is far more important than anything in Maryland, in fact more important than most of the rest of the country with the possible exception of NYC or L.A.  Sorry, Chicago.
            Across the Potomac River is Virginia.  It’s hard to tell how important Virginia is these days; its major deal is being a relic of the Civil War, like South Carolina.  Its capital, Richmond, used to be the capital of the Confederacy.  Many of the Founding Fathers, most notably George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, were from Virginia; TJ’s home, Monticello, is part of the University of Virginia in Charlottesville.  And most of the top Civil War CSA generals, like Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson, were from Virginia, as was the CSA’s major arms works, the Tredegar factory in Richmond
            To the west is West Virginia.  To the east: DelawareWest Virginia’s major distinction seems to be seceding from Virginia and giving that state a more aesthetically pleasing shape, at the expense of its own.  Delaware is forgotten except by students of corporate law (as I was) or anyone who wants to incorporate a business. 

 Roads.  Take DC as the center of Maryland’s road network, with the Beltway surrounding DC’s diamond shape and providing a useful ring from which to send forth various major highways.  
            Shoot northwest from the Beltway with 270, which passes Rockville, then Gaithersburg, then Germantown, and winds up in Frederick.  From Frederick, 70 goes east to Baltimore and west to Hagerstown.  What you thought of as 270 continues north as 15 and takes you to small-town Pennsylvania.
            Shoot northeast from the Beltway with 95, which goes up to Baltimore, up into Delaware, and eventually all the way up to Maine.  95 is the easternmost north-south highway in the US highway system which starts with 5 in California
            Shoot due east from the Beltway, as Route 50 which heads to Annapolis, crosses the bay, and then winds itself across the Eastern Shore to Ocean City.
            Roughly parallel to 270 is 355, which starts in DC as Wisconsin Ave. and continues all the way up to Frederick, where it ends.

 Clutch.  Off the top of my head, I can’t think of any other major rock band from Maryland.  These guys are from Germantown, and fly the Maryland flag on stage quite often.  They even refer to “Montgomery Village” in one song.  The singer Neil Fallon now has a bushy beard, but short hair, making him look vaguely like Tsar Nicholas II.  The lyrics are all over the place, and the rock is groovy.  I can even hear a fair dose of Frank Zappa in the mix.

 Montgomery County.  Just as Fairfax County is Virginia’s wealthiest, most affluent (and liberal) county (Death Star or not), Monkey County – as I call it, as opposed to Pig County (Prince George’s) – is Maryland’s elite county.  The county seat is Rockville, but it also includes Gaithersburg and Germantown.

 Montgomery Village.  This is where I grew up, from 1970-79, right next to Gaithersburg.  It’s a suburban planned community which dates from the late 60s.  We had a single family home on Lake Whetstone, but there are townhouses, condos and apartments as well.  Unfortunately the Village Mall is long gone. 

 Rockville.  Take 355 southeast from Montgomery Village and you’ll wind up in Rockville.  This is where the Montgomery County District Court and Circuit Court are, and Rockville Pike is the main commercial strip going all the way down into Bethesda.  I still love driving through Rockville on my way back from court.  Unfortunately Shakey’s (the pizza place) is long gone.

 Bethesda.  Just south of Rockville.  This is the home of a large Navy center, where I was born in 1969 (my mom was in the Navy at the time).  It never occurred to me to wonder what a naval base is doing far from any river or ocean, but we went to the PX and enjoyed it anyway; it’s the Navy’s equivalent of Walter Reed.  JFK’s autopsy was performed there in 1963 – after he was shot.

 Baltimore.  Easily the biggest and most important city in Maryland.  The funny thing is, when we lived in Maryland from ’70-79 we had no reason to go to Baltimore.  I ended up going up far more often years later after graduating from law school.  A few times we went to the Inner Harbor, a few trips to Hammerjacks, and a few shows at the Otto Bar and the Side Bar; and quite a few shows, far more recently, at the Ram’s Head Live.  And every now and then I have cases in the Baltimore City court (downtown) or Baltimore County up in Towson.  I recall back when we were kids and our family would travel up to NY (NYC, Long Island, or Glens Falls) we’d go through the Harbor Tunnel.  That’s a long tunnel.  The Inner Harbor area is well built up with lots of skyscrapers, an excellent mall, and by now several large clubs.  The US District Court for Maryland is close by, as is the immigration court at 31 Hopkins Plaza. 

 Columbia.  This is another planned suburban community, midway between DC and Baltimore.  If you think of Montgomery Village as being 30 minutes northwest of DC along 270, Columbia is 30 minutes northeast of DC along 95.  Montgomery Village has Lakeforest Mall, Columbia has Columbia Mall.  But Columbia’s major attraction is Merriweather Post Pavilion, a big ampitheater type concert venue across 175 from Columbia Mall.  My friend from University of Maryland, College Park, Ken used to live in Columbia – then moved to New Jersey after graduating from UM.  Edward Norton, the actor, is from Columbia; he actually went to Ken’s high school, Wilde Lake, at the same time Ken did.

 Frederick.  Now my mom lives there.  It’s an hour northwest of DC at the end of 270.  It’s pretty small, but it’s the 2nd largest city in Maryland after Baltimore (which tells you how small Annapolis is).  When we were kids we’d go up to Frederick Mall, which is fairly small too.  The downtown area is kind of cool – old but classy.

 Annapolis.  This is the capital of Maryland, about 15-20 minutes east of DC via Route 50, right on the Chesapeake Bay before the Bay Bridge.  It’s the home of the US Naval Academy, which of course is colloquially referred to as Annapolis.  My occasion to visit this place is rare:  a few shows at the Ram’s Head On Stage, swearing in to the Maryland State Bar in December 1993, and that’s about it.

 Eastern Shore & Ocean City.  If you take the Bay Bridge across the bay, and follow Route 50 all the way to the Ocean, you find Ocean City.  I haven’t been there since an aborted trip on Memorial Day weekend of 1990 (when it rained nonstop and we left just about as soon as we got there).  When we were kids growing up, my family would go there, and stay in some hotel – the Decatur (first trip, but long gone) and later the Carousel.  This was the “beach trip” for us before moving off to France.

 University of Maryland.  I went to the flagship campus, College Park.  Worldwide, UM-University College (UMUC) is one of the largest in the US or the world.  I know there is a 2 year campus in Munich and they offer courses across Germany at the US bases.  The College Park campus is the largest of them, very spread out, which is what I wanted.  Their sports teams, the Terps, play in Division I – we even won the NCAA basketball tournament back in 2002. 

 Edgar Allen Poe.  The famous 19th century poet lived in different places, including Richmond, Virginia, but he’s most known and associated with Baltimore.  “The Telltale Heart”, “The Cask of Amantillado”, “The Murders on the Rue Morgue”, and “The Raven” are his most famous. 

 SportsColts/Ravens.  The Colts started off in Maryland, and were in Baltimore until 1984; before Peyton Manning, there was Johnny Unitas.  For a long time they were the football team in Maryland aside from the Terps.  I never really considered them to be direct competitors to the Redskins.
            Eventually the Browns relocated to Baltimore and became the Ravens, to take the name from Edgar Allen Poe’s famous poem.  With the Browns resurrected in Cleveland again, the Ravens are out of that shadow.  Plus, they’ve won the Super Bowl, which no Browns team can claim.  Now the Redskins are technically in Maryland at FedEx Field, but we still think of them as from Washington and not a Maryland team.
 Orioles.  They’ve been around for awhile.  Recall that episode of “Seinfeld” where George got them into the Yankees box and Elaine insisted on wearing an Orioles cap.  I’ve been past Camden Yards dozens of times – it’s right next to where 95 dumps you off into Baltmore, so you can’t miss it – but have never been to a game there.